Two shirts can look almost identical in a photo and feel completely different on a humid Mumbai afternoon. The difference is the fibre and the weave. Here is how to pick the right shirt fabric for the way you live and work.
Start with the fibre
Cotton
Cotton is the all-rounder: soft, breathable, easy to stitch and easy to iron. A good cotton shirt works in an air-conditioned office in July and under a sweater in December. If you are building a basic wardrobe, start here.
Giza (Egyptian) cotton
Giza is a long-staple cotton grown in Egypt. Longer fibres can be spun into finer, stronger yarn, so Giza shirts feel smoother and softer and tend to keep their look for longer than shirts made from shorter-fibre cotton. Choose it for shirts you will wear to important meetings and occasions. You will find it across our Giza cotton shirting range, including Arvind's Tresca line.
Linen
Linen is woven from flax. It is the coolest shirt fabric you can wear: it lets air through, wicks moisture and dries quickly, which is why it is so popular for Indian summers. It creases easily; most linen lovers see that relaxed look as part of its charm.
Linen yarn is graded by lea. The higher the lea number, the finer the yarn:
- 60 lea: slightly heavier, with a more visible texture. Classic and hard-wearing.
- 70 lea: the sweet spot for many shirts, soft but still clearly linen.
- 80 lea and above: finer, lighter and smoother, with a dressier feel.
Browse our linen shirt fabrics.
Cotton-linen
A blend of cotton and linen gives you much of linen's coolness with fewer creases and a softer hand. A good choice if you like linen but need to look sharp all day. See cotton-linen shirt fabrics.
Bamboo blends
Bamboo-based fibre blended with cotton feels cool and silky with a soft sheen. It is comfortable against the skin and drapes nicely. See bamboo blend shirt fabrics.
Then look at the weave
- Plain weave (poplin): smooth, crisp and formal. The classic office shirt.
- Satin weave: more yarn floats on the surface, giving a smooth face and a gentle sheen. Dressy and ideal for evening functions.
- Dobby: a small, woven texture or geometric pattern. Adds interest while staying formal.
- Jacquard: larger patterns woven into the cloth. Looks plain from afar and rich up close, great for festive shirts and kurtas.
- Prints: digital printing reproduces fine detail and many colours, perfect for holiday and casual shirts.
Match the fabric to the occasion
| Occasion | Good choices |
|---|---|
| Daily office wear | Plain or striped cotton, Giza cotton, dobby |
| Hot, humid days | Linen, cotton-linen |
| Important meetings | Fine Giza cotton in white, sky blue or subtle stripes |
| Evening parties | Satin weave, dark colours, jacquard |
| Weekends and holidays | Checks, prints, linen |
| Festivals and weddings | Jacquard, satin, bright linen; kurta lengths |
Colours that work hardest
If you are building a shirt wardrobe from scratch, start with white, sky blue and a fine blue stripe. These go with every trouser and suit. Next add pink or lavender, a grey, and one or two checks for weekends. Save brights and prints for when the basics are covered.
Care tips by fabric
- Cotton: machine wash cold to warm, iron on medium to high.
- Linen: gentle cold wash, iron while slightly damp.
- Satin and jacquard: gentle wash, iron on the reverse to protect the surface.
- Prints and dark colours: wash inside out and dry in shade.
How much fabric?
Most shirts need 1.60 m, larger sizes 1.80–2.00 m, and kurtas 2.25–2.80 m. Read our full guide: How much fabric do you need?
Ready to choose? Browse all shirt fabrics from Arvind, Raymond, Mafatlal and more. Shipping is free on all orders.
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