Walk into any suiting shop and you will hear words like poly-wool, TR, Super 120's and stretch. They matter, because they decide how a suit or trouser feels, how it wears and how much care it needs. This guide explains each one so you can choose with confidence.
The main suiting blends
Poly-wool (wool blend)
Wool blended with polyester. Wool gives a rich drape, natural breathability and a premium look; polyester adds strength and helps the fabric spring back from creases. Poly-wool is the classic choice for business suits, blazers and formal trousers you want to look their best. See poly-wool suiting and wool blend trousers.
Poly-viscose
Polyester blended with viscose. It holds a sharp crease, resists wrinkles and is easy to look after, and it costs less than wool blends. That makes it the most popular choice for everyday office trousers and uniforms. See poly-viscose trousers.
Terry rayon (TR)
Terry rayon is also a polyester-viscose blend; "TR" is simply the trade name many mills use. Expect a smooth surface, a crisp crease and easy care. See terry rayon trousers.
Cotton and cotton-stretch suiting
Cotton suiting is breathable and has a more relaxed, matte look, ideal for chinos-style trousers and summer suits. Many cotton suitings include Lycra (elastane) for stretch, which makes them very comfortable for travel and long days. See cotton trousers.
Stretch suiting
Ranges such as Raymond's Techno Stretch add a small amount of stretch to wool-blend suiting. The trouser moves with you when you sit, drive or climb stairs, and keeps its shape afterwards.
What do Super 100's, 120's and 150's mean?
The "Super" number describes how fine the wool fibre is. The higher the number, the finer the fibre:
- Super 70's–90's: durable, everyday wool. Great for trousers you will wear often.
- Super 100's–120's: softer and smoother with a better drape. A good balance for suits.
- Super 140's–150's: very fine and luxurious. Beautiful for occasion suits, but treat them gently and rotate them with other suits.
In a poly-wool blend the Super number refers to the wool part of the blend. Finer is not always better: for a trouser you will wear three days a week, a sturdier grade will last longer.
Which colours to buy first
- Navy: the most versatile suit and trouser colour.
- Charcoal and mid grey: go with every shirt and tie.
- Beige or fawn: the summer and daytime option, especially with a navy blazer.
- Black: for evenings and formal events.
Once these are covered, add character with checks, pinstripes, browns, greens or a festive wine or purple.
Choosing by occasion
| Need | Recommended |
|---|---|
| Everyday office trousers | Poly-viscose or terry rayon in navy, grey, black |
| Business suit | Poly-wool, Super 100's–120's, navy or charcoal |
| Wedding or reception suit | Fine poly-wool (120's and up), or a jacquard for a bandhgala |
| Travel and long days | Stretch suiting or cotton-Lycra |
| Summer | Lighter colours; cotton or cotton-wool blends |
Care basics
- Wool blends: dry clean, hang on a shaped hanger and rest a day between wears.
- Poly-viscose and TR: gentle wash or dry clean; iron with a pressing cloth to avoid shine.
- Stretch fabrics: iron on low to medium heat to protect the elastane.
How much fabric?
A trouser needs 1.30–1.80 m, a blazer 2.00–2.85 m and a two-piece suit 3.00–3.50 m depending on size. See the full table in How much fabric do you need?
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